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SECTION 9 :- Base extension Due
to me wanting to have the lights separate I need to put in a switch,
but the base is too shallow for any to fit. Out comes my trusty
parts box & I found I had a battery box from an old kit that was
crying out to be used. The fighter base was a bit too wide to go
straight onto the base, but using the trusty plastic card would cure
that. I did some test fitting to see the best place to rest the
kit base on & marked that out on the battery box. Out came
the heavy cutting gear & I cut an area out of the battery box that
would be above where the wire come out from the kit and base. The kit base had a thin piece of plastic card cut
to cover the entire bottom. This was to cover the edges that stuck came
out over the box & also to keep the base level. This was then
glued to the battery box & allowed to dry. All that was
needed was to cut through the thin plastic to allow the wire to come
down. The base upright & added tube were glued into position.
Two 5mm holes were drilled in each end of the battery box ( one for the
switch & the other for a power connector ). The whole unit was then sprayed. I used some dark
metallic grey I had from a previous car kit ( Halfords UK), but you can
spray this whatever colour you wanted. While the paint was hardening I set to work with
my soldering iron again & made up the switch. I used a mini
switch which had dual pole dual throw with centre off (DPDT).
This would allow me to have the switch off in the centre position, one
with just the interior lights on one setting & interior with
engines on the other. The centre pins had the 2 positive inputs (red) soldered on, one the LHS I put on just the lead for the interior lights (white) & on the other both the white & a lead for the engines (green). All of these were then covered in heat shrink to stop any shorting. This switch was then left for fitting at the end.
At the moment the kit looks a bit bland, so lets
get highlights & weathing done... I use mainly Humbrol paints
on my kits so I went through my conversion charts & found the
colours I needed. It is a also a good excuse to watch the pilot episode
of "Star Trek Voyager" to see if the colours given are about
right. I say "about right" as the ship is always going to be different
as the light conditions will never be the same as in your house as used
in the TV programmes. It looked to me that there was too much
panel detail going on, so poetic licence on the final amount was called
for ( Purists will now be screaming, but sorry ). The first 3 sets of colour were the alternate
grey ( H - Humbrol 141), Africa brown ( D - Humbrol 63) & copper (
K - Humbrol 54). These were allowed to dry overnight.
It's
time to marry the fighter to the base. I took care to feed the wire
down the tube into the base before first locating the stand & then
gently pushing the rod into the hole at the bottom of the
fighter. I then fitted the switch & power connector into the
base & soldered up the remaining set of wires.
Well there you have it model makers.. My lighted
version of the Maquis fighter. I hope the effect & time is
born out in the pictures below . If you want to ask any
questions, just drop me a line........
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SORRY FOLKS THAT'S IT :-) |