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Building a 1/6 Harley Davidson

 

Part 1 :- Frame & engine build

 

Introduction

Harley kit box

I knew the bike was going to be big by the size of the box & I was not wrong when I looked inside.  All the parts were well packaged & in bags & the metal parts & screws were well protected. The instruction book is well detailed with diagrams & part numbers & it is a good job as there are no english translations for the notes, but I managed to work out what they were saying.

After my intitial pleasure I began to notice that all was not well. with closer look at the sprues I could see some very serious problems to come.

Some of the "chroming" had not worked on one of the sprues & faded to its natural black plastic colour, some of the other chrome parts were scratched & some other coated parts had either a lot of "flash" or very obvious mould lines. I had a long think about what to do & my wife could see, on my face, the problem I would have trying to use chrome parts as they were, it was her idea to do a "Custom" paint job on the bike (thanks dear you always help me see the bright side).  This would allow me to remove all the seam lines & scratches & give a personal touch. A quick walk to a local autoshop (Halfords) & with my Sarah's help we chose a metallic red for the main parts (fuel tank,"fenders"& fairing),  & a dark copper & a pale gold scheme for the old chromed parts married to a black frame.

Problem with kit No.1

Problem with kit No.2

Problem with kit No.3

Problem with kit No.4

FRAME ASSEMBLY:- Parts 1,2 & 3

There were shaded parts on this section that the instructions said were needed to be removed. FOLLOW the picture below as some of the areas marked to be removed will be needed to fix the rear foot rests. The only problem I had had was with part No. N8.  This had a nasty seam line & the matt coating was stratched so out came the sanding sticks & I decided to paint it the same colour as the frame.

frame alterations required

The chain in section 3 was painted in Tamiya metallic grey & given a black ink wash to bring out the link detail. I then sprayed the frame in gloss black & the completed suspension arm in satin black. I did not fit parts F7 & F8 as these were to be painted in the custom colours later.  To continue with the paint scheme I highlighted the part No. L28 in gold.

drive train fitted

ENGINE ASSEMBLY:- Parts 4 to 7

As the engine covers (Part No. L4 & L16) were going to be re-painted I built these up & put them aside & did not fit them to the part E23 & E18.  I built the cyclinder cases & then attached E23 & E18 to these. None of the bolt detail or spark plugs were added to the cases as this will go on after the parts have been sprayed. The crank case minus the cover & oil pump was assembled & I sanded the seam lines ready for spraying.  The crank case was done in Tamiya metallic grey, the cyclinder head in Tamiya Crome silver & the rocker covers & case cover in the "Halfords" Sovereign Gold (As mentioned in the introduction).

engine primary painting

The push rods were also sparyed in the gold & the engine assembled.  All of the bolt details were painted in  to help follow the theme & some of the other bolt heads were highlighted in purple.

Completed engine No.1

completed engine No.2

  

STAGE 8

With using our chosen paint scheme I sanded off the chrome from the drive train covers & primed & painted them in sovereign gold & bright copper. The gearbox unit was painted in metallic grey & the piping fixed with a small amount of superglue.

transmission cover & front forks

 

STAGE 9

The decals were fixed on the frame & the engine mounted in place as well as the gearbox unit.

Engine & gearbox mounted

 

STAGE 10

The sub assembly section in part 10 where the stand spring is fitted caused a minor problem as you need to drill a small hole where it fixes to the arm. I used a .3mm drill so that the spring hook would fit in the stand arm. The cover (G14) was painted in copper.  I would fit this unit to the frame & attach parts L23 & L33 before fitting the gearbox cover assembly you made in stage 8 as the locating pin for part L23 will be obscured.

 front stand & accent covers fitted

STAGES 11 & 12

On stage 11 I had to file the inside of parts L5 & L6 to allow N11 to slide freely & it is advisable when you fit the spring to allow the glue from part D30 to set before you attach it to the pedal arm. The only difference in stage 12 is that the push rods on the engine had already been fitted back in stage 7.

RHS pedal & detail painting

STAGES 13 & 14

The plating on parts G19, G23, G26, F14 & F28 were removed & painted in our chosen scheme. With the rear mudguard coming in four parts filler was required at the joins, sanded down smooth & then it was primed & sprayed in Canyon Red. The resulting finish showed no join marks & made it look like one solid unit.

rear mudguard filling

rear mudguard primed

mudguards painted red

completed rear mudguard

STAGES 15 & 16

This is the sub assembly & fitting of the reservoir tanks & battery & also the fitting of the rear mudguard unit. Stage 15 showed no problems bar a little filler on the battery, but the fun comes in stage 16 when you try to fit it inside the frame.  Great care & patience is needed as it is tricky to fit the reservoir unit through the frame & locate it on the three support arms. You will have to guide it slowly in & maneuver it around the front pins so that it sits level.. The rear mudguard fits in with no problem & is secured by two screws, but do not over tighten these .

battery tub & oil tank building

Oil tank & rear mudguard fitted

STAGE 17

No problems here just do not over tighten the screws when fitting the front bar.

Footrests & footguard No.1

Footrests & footguard No.2

 

COMING NEXT:-

Part 2 will be continuing the bike construction.Click here for next page